On a whim, we visited Tallinn, Estonia, in October 2011. I’ve tried to bring my JPG-format photos from our trip back to life to show you this gorgeous little city.

Before I shot in RAW . . .

At best, I’m an amateur photographer. At worst, I shot JPG files on my old Panasonic Lumix G1 before I really began to let go of the automatic function and before learning of the true benefits of shooting in RAW and developing in Lightroom. For my newly-found skills in the latter, I must thank my brother Anthony, a fantastic photographer, author and manager at www.mythicalireland.ie. I’ve been sorting through my back-catalogue of JPG files and have imported some into Lightroom to try to bring them to life and to share with you. The first of these projects is here; Tallinn, Estonia, in October 2011. A stunningly beautiful, city by the sea surrounded by its Soviet past, but with a real Estonian fire at its heart . . .

The Old Town

The divide between the old and the new. The gateway to history. A monument to the passing of time. And a reminder for Estonians of their cultural past among a more Soviet-dominated century.
Do one thing in Tallinn. Head to the vibrant Old Town. When you land at the airport, take a taxi from outside the front doors and ask to be driven down Tartu Mantee towards the Old Town (no matter where your hotel might be). It provides a wonderful insight into how dominant the Soviet influence was (essentially between 1940 and 1990, with a slight break for World War II when under a civilian occupation regime in the Baltics by Nazi Germany). The city feels grey, uniform, straight, blocky. The journey softens in tone and style as you get more central.
Get to Viru Gate (pictured below – from inside the Old Town looking out) and almost instantly you’ll feel transformed into another world.

Viru Gate

Built in the 14th century, this barbican was once part of the city’s defences. Part of the old walls (called Musumagi) is now home to several stalls and carts and is worth a ramble to view the wares on sale.

Town Hall Square

From the iconic Viru Varavad, head up Viru (admiring the gorgeous buildings along the way) and make your way to the historic Tallinn Town Hall Square, a market place and centre of all things Tallinn since the Middle Ages.

We made this place the focal point of our trip – we popped up for coffee and lunch during the day and returned at night to see how vibrant the nightlife was. Throughout the year, the square plays host to medieval festivals, plays and concerts – there was a stage being set up while we were there for an outdoor concert.
The slender tower of the town hall itself is a real focal point for the square. On the UNESCO world heritage site list, it is now a museum, but was used by the city powers until 1970.
In winter, the place becomes a photographer’s delight with the fabulous Christmas market. It’s definitely on the to-do list – to return in December and enjoy the vibrant displays and sales.

Take time to sit and relax over a coffee and watch the world go by in one of the restaurants and coffee shops that surround the square

Kiek in de Kok

It would be rude to visit Tallinn and not stop off at the Kiek in de Kok . . .
Translated as “peep in the kitchen”, this tower is 38m tall with walls that are 4m thick.
Now a museum and photography gallery space, it has had several uses (and several different looks) over the centuries, from repository to defensive tower to apartments . . .
The name came from the ability of its occupants to peep into the kitchens of surrounding houses.
It is not the only thing to see if you take the time to walk the old town walls.

Old town walls

Spend some time wandering around Kiek in de Kok and the streets and alleyways near it. There are so many of the original town wall towers (albeit restored) to be seen, some of which blend into buildings, shops and even apartments. It’s astonishing to think what was allowed to happen before regulation . . .

Piik Jalg

Find this little narrow cobbled laneway that leads up to . . .

Alexander Nevsky Cathedral

Set in the heart of a small square (Lossi plats), this orthodox cathedral was built between 1894 and 1900 when the country was under Russian control. Some of the buildings that surround the square are gorgeous too and well worth the trip up.

St Olaf’s Church

Our guide book said “climb inside the steeple of St Olaf’s (Oliveste) and enjoy stunning views of the city”.
Well, I certainly climbed inside the steeple. But I took one look out the narrow, low doorway and decided my acrophobia wasn’t going to allow this to happen!
Thankfully, my wife Samantha took one for the team and took these fantastic photographs instead!

Kadriorg Palace

This beautiful building is now home to an art museum, but was built by Peter The Great for Catherine I between 1718 and 1725. Originally a summer imperial residence, it is surrounded by wonderful parklands, in which you can find . . .

Architecture on Avenue Weizenbergi

. . . the most amazing old wooden-style structures housing both offices and living quarters. We took a good stroll around the entire park – there are some fascinating buildings to be found.

Kumu Museum

At the bottom end of the park is the ship-like Kumu Museum. While the Kadriorg hosts all the foreign art exhibitions, this 2006-built building houses Estonian artwork.

Lido at Solaris Centre

At the Solaris Centre, we found this amazing coffee shop to bring our time in Tallinn to a fairytale ending . . .