Magnificent Milan

Milano Centrale
The magnificent upper concourse of Milano Centrale.

Being from Ireland, train stations aren’t really a thing. Heuston Station in Dublin is probably about the best of them. It’s not big; just, visually, it’s appealing. So arriving in Milano Centrale late on a Monday afternoon in May is something of an eye-opener. Now THIS is a train station!

Having spent a couple of days with friends in Basel (more on that in another post!), we enjoyed the leisurely journey through Switzerland, passed quickly through the newly-opened 57km-long Gotthard Base Tunnel (it began full service on 11 December 2016) and eventually entered Italy past Chiasso and into Como.

Inaugurated in 1931 (replacing the former central station that could no longer support the volume of train traffic), its huge domed roof as you enter from your point of origin is massively overwhelming. When you get off your train and enter the main concourse, it’s just mind-blowing. It has beauty, elegance, style and grandeur written all over it.

The speed at which people moved in Centrale really felt a world away from the quiet bustle of Switzerland we had become accustomed to over the previous few days. Life moves at a different pace in Milan.

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Modern central Milan, just a short walk from Milano Centrale train station.

AirBnB

We cannot recommend AirBnB enough to families travelling with children. It gives you so much space and freedom to do your own thing. We were lucky enough to find this absolute gem within a five-minute walk of Centrale and close to both Centrale and Repubblica stops on the Milan subway, not to mention the 9 and 10 street trams that stopped outside the front door.

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Day or night, I never tired of the view from our apartment.

As we stepped out on to the balcony, we were blown away by the striking view looking west towards the Porta Garibaldi district.

Click here to book Yogan’s wonderful apartment in Milan

Duomo

After jogging round Giardini Pubblici Indro Montanelli the next morning (it’s worth going back there another time as it is home to the Natural History Museum, Palazzo Dugnani and planetarium), we headed straight for Piazza del Duomo on the Metro. Like any other subway in the world, it’s easy once you get the hang of which end-point you should be heading towards.

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Milan’s famous Duomo.

If we thought Milano Centrale was impressive, we were about to be awestruck as we ascended the stairs (have you ever tried to carry a five-year-old weighing 19kg in a buggy because he had a broken foot?!) and out on to the piazza. It is very difficult to describe how utterly stunning this church is. You almost get a sense that it’s not real; that it’s a prop for a movie or for the next season of Game of Thrones perhaps.The duomo (or to give it its full Italian title the Basilica cattedrale metropolitana di Santa Maria Nascente) occupies what was the most central site in Roman Mediolanum, with streets radiating from this central point or indeed circling it on a larger scale. The pinnacles and spires alone are things of wonder, with golden statues atop the main ones.

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Piazza del Duomo

With our little fella laid up with a bent metatarsal, we didn’t bother getting tickets for the rooftop view. There was quite a queue, and that was a Tuesday morning in May! When we go back, it’s definitely something we’ll do. As a keen amateur photographer, I want to inspect the sculptures up close! Holidays 230518-134.jpg

We were happy to soak up the view, enjoy the bustle of the piazza, watch two dancers tango their way through the intense heat and admire the work of so many over so many years.

Leading off the Piazza del Duomo is the overpowering arched covered mall of the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. It’s a bit of a mouthful, but wait until you step inside, see what it houses and then look at the prices in the windows! They really will take your breath away!

With restaurants and shops lining each side – with names such as Prada, Versace, Louis Vutton and more – it’s easy to get lost in the level of your eyes. But it’s important to look up and admire the serviced apartments and suites, and to look down at the stunning floor mosaics that lead you towards the central area. We were very lucky on our day that the sun was shining a bright light down on us through the fantastic domed roof over our heads. It lit up the scene perfectly for me. And what a scene.

We exited and took a right, down Via Tommaso Marino, on to Via Agnello and eventually out to Corso Vittorio Emanuele II. With our backs now to the famous Duomo, we headed down this pedestrianised street and wondered at the amount of famous brands, stores, shops and boutiques to our left and right in stunning facades.

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Eataly at Piazza XXV Aprile in Milan

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We headed back towards the Duomo to get back on the correct Metro line. On recommendation from a friend, we sought out Eataly at Piazza XXV Aprile, right beside Porta Garibaldi. If you’ve never been, there are branches across Italy, several in America and indeed in locations such as Japan, Stockholm and Moscow.

Think of this place as an IKEA of Italian food produce. Set on different levels, the Milan store offers a couple of different restaurants, as well as a wine store on the top floor. The food we ate was gorgeous and the produce we bought on the ground floor – and later cooked in the apartment (another bonus of having your own space while away) – was delicious. I swear I’ll never eat take-away pizza again after our visit here!

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Day trip – Bergamo

Explore. Travel. Broaden your horizons. Do something different. Push the boat out. Get out of your comfort zone. Visit Bergamo.

Less than an hour on the regional train from Milano Centrale, Bergamo was a real gem of a discovery. On arrival at the train station, we walked the 1.5km north (there is a bus available too) to the funicolare citta’ alta (old town funicular).

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There was much to enjoy in this area of ‘modern’ Bergamo – some fantastic new apartment complexes, some really old-style Italian villas, amazing banks in stunning architecture and a few modern sculptures along the way too.

And for only €2.60 each return on the funicular, we were rewarded with a never-to-forget experience of what 16th century Italy has to offer.

The upper city forms the centre of historic old Bergamo, surrounded by high Venetian walls. The layout of the streets and the views from the vantage points are worth the train fare alone.

As we tend to do, we did our own thing on arrival. There are guided tours available of course, but we always recommend following your gut instinct and head off to see parts you might not otherwise be shown.

We stumbled across the Rocca di Bergamo first up. Now a military museum with several outdoor displays, we walked round the open areas with locals and visitors alike. I could have taken pictures here all day of the surrounding countryside and not become bored.

Back in the upper city, we wound our way through the narrow alleyways (have I mentioned how difficult it is pushing a five-year-old in a buggy?!) towards Piazza Vecchia, home to the refurbished Biblioteca Civica Angelo Mai. We took a little snack break here and watched the people go by.

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Italians really do churches. Everywhere we went on our little trip, we were blown away by their architecture. And when lucky enough to get inside some, the ornate furnishings and intricate artwork on the ceilings leave you wondering how these were completed in an era long before all the modern comforts technology and engineering can offer.

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The Cappella Colleoni somewhat overshadows the Basilica of Santa Maria next door in terms of external beauty. But I was lucky enough to get inside the Basilica and grab a couple of photos of the arches and roof paintings.

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Milan’s Naviglio Grande

Milan – Naviglio Grande

Back in Milan, we headed for the Porta Genova stop on the Metro, and strolled down Via Valenza towards Naviglio Grande, the canals of Milan. Stopping off for a glass of wine at Banco, it’s a great spot in the late afternoon to people-watch. At night, the entire strip is a hive of activity with all the restaurants and bars full of Milanese and tourists. It may be chaotic in the summer, but it’s real Italy, where you can immerse yourself fully in the Milanese way of life.

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